I’ve been in the ocean quite lot, relative to the last few years; quite a lot, recently. and there’s a comfort growing. Maybe the ocean is waking up in me again.
I feel the need to surf even more frequently. more two-a-days. more. and that is a very good sign. I am more me when connected to the ocean.
There are nagging injuries and insecurities, so I’m cautiously optimistic. But optimistic.
This afternoon I knocked the fin out of a 10’-6” log, but stayed out and surfed a handful of waves finless. Fast, slippery, but able to hold a line. So fun!
I just received this photo from my friends Adrian Ramirez Lopez (took the shot), and Philip Kirst (rider). Sooo stoked! Phil is riding the little Red Gum speed sled I carved for him, nicknamed “Liquid Lightning,” and getting deep behind the curtain. YeeeEEEW!
Picked up my first surfboard build from the glasser (Bob Haakenson) today! It’s a 7’-5” hollow wooden tri-plane hull, with a 9” Liddle template flex fin from True Ames. I built/shaped it with Western Red Cedar, agave (rails), and Paduak details. and I’m thrilled! Can’t wait to finish boards two and three and get started on more. Yeeeew!
Carving handboards at the avocado orchards I used to live at. Looking to relocate the shop to somewhere similar right now…
US Constitution, First Amendment: The right to assemble, to have free speech, to have freedom of the press.
Ferguson Police: Kicks out media and limits protestors to a “First Amendment Area”
Some wood fins I foiled recently that are ready to go to True Ames Fins for glassing. The big (will finish up near 10 1/2”) cutaway ‘D’ fins will have glass built up at the base for finbox use; they are flat sawn Western Red Cedar (infill) with bent Mahogany around the perimeter. The small fin is crotch Avocado wood, and will be used as a single glass-on for a 6’-5” hollow wood board I’ve commissioned my partner (Tris Tarantion, Cedar Surfboards) to build and shape for me. Stoked!